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I'm so new it's embarrassing. :confused:
I just purchased my xt-2 and two lenses. I have no idea where to begin. I did figure out how to take pictures in Auto mode on camera and lens but that's about it. I want to learn how to use the lenses.. how to focus... basic stuff. Where can I get basic info?…
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I think this is hilarious.
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My personal favourite is the bird and jet trail…
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My flash works by random.
I cant seem to find a “force flash” option on my camera so the flash activates randomly.
When i check the menu, i have only “off/TTL/M/Commander” those 4. No “force flash”.. so at parties, my flash just goes random depending on the auto exposure. I also notice if its pitch black, it doesnt activate the flash. But if your photo has some overexposed stuff similar to being “behind the light”, it activates it.
Any help? I just want the flash to work during parties in every shot…
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Just a simple candid street style snap taken at Canterbury Kent UK of a young man with his Guitar doing a bit of street playing.
I'm also working on a personal project called Faceless and this will be one of the shots included.
X-T2, 55-200mm Lens, 1/220th @ F4.8, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
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The Polar Bear sure seemed to enjoy seeing a few people!
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I enjoy trying new things, especially when it works out.
I'm new to any sort of off camera flash. My Godox TT685F arrived today. I was waiting for this to use on my new lightstand, Godox soft box and X1TF trigger.
First job was to crank up the ancient PC and update the X1TF firmware. The trigger was then working with the TT885F.
I then assembled the lightstand and soft box (a bit of a jack in the box moment here) and while I was at it I looked for a suitable model. Using manual, my X-T2 and 55-200 I just played around with light intensity without even looking at my camera settings (Aperture priority, ISO200).
From LR 1/40 F3.7 and 74mm.
1/4 power in manual seemed close. I'll spend more time at this when my wife is home to model and there's better window light. Oh my 56 1.2 should be here then too. Lots of learning still to happen.
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Living in a rural community, there is no shortage of possible areas to photograph. I was out hunting as our most recent snow storm was coming to an end...or so I thought. It was just a break, because it kicked back into full force again shortly after I took this shot.
Fuji X-T2 w/Fujinon 16-55 R LM WR
Hi guys,
I waited for this feature that I could change the focusing point with eye at the EVF and it's so dissapointing. Completely zero control. I wish they added an absolute position touch. So that the area on the touchscreen is your sensor area and whenever you touch, the focus point moves there. Now I keep swiping for forever before the focus point actually moves... usually to where I don't want it…
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Just a lady on her mobile phone yesterday, X-T2+XF 35mm f2
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1928 Leica 1 model A
Still a good shooter after nearly 90 years.
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Another painterly portrait...

Xpro2, 18-55, Deep Octa 150cm
C&C welcomed.
Someone on Instagram commented on the lack of caption. What do you think would make a good caption?…
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Since I was unable to get any decent shots of the super moon I set out the next (foggy) morning for a walk with the X-T2/55-200 and got some interesting shots of the sun. Here’s one, slightly adjusted with Snapseed on my iPad., not sure how it will upload. Curious what you think, thanks…
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Menorah lighting on the town green. More Please login or register to view links.
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It was a nice late-fall day in the Ozarks so we went to Roaring River State Park for a walk in the woods. In addition to hiking trails, the park includes a trout hatchery watered by the 20th largest spring in Missouri.
I posted a few more as Replys to this thread.
All from my XE2 + 18-55mm f2.8-4.0…
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...but without a hard release date (facepalm). We may not be getting this in the stocking for Christmas, darn it.
Flash Havoc announcement:
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(BTW, the photos of the XPro are of the Nikon version, so grain of salt that elv's caught all the differences from the -N/-C versions).
Adorama listing:
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Not yet listed on Amazon via Adorama, because it's not yet released.
Flash Havoc noted that only groups A-C can be set to TTL; groups D&E are manual-only. (This is actually the same on the Canon XPro for pre-2012 bodies).
My last word of advice before you rush to put in a pre-order :), make sure you get/have a USB C cable that can connect to your computer if you want to do firmware updates. My XPro-C didn't come with one. Happily, My Godox A1 did (it, too, only has a USB C port, but requires the cable for charging), so I was able to do the recent firmware upgrade for the XPro-C. Unlike previous Godox gear, this one is not using a micro-USB port, and the ports look similar in size…
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I have an XT-2 purchased used, presumed to be out of warranty. It is fully functional except that if the battery is removed all user-programmed settings are found to be reset to factory default upon re-installation and power-up. I’m guessing that the internal permanent battery is defective (seems too new for it to have lost effectiveness through age). Does anyone have any insight or experience with this problem, and advice before I send it in for possibly expensive repair?…
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Hi, moving over to Fuji from Olympus & have a few questions for you experienced IR users. I'm selling my beloved full spectrum E-M5 which has been used for lots of 720nm IR.
W/ the Oly, I use a custom WB off grass in sunlight + a custom IR camera profile in LR for raw development. For sun lit subjects, I usually do Red-Blue swap. For subjects in shade, I typically do BW conversion in NIK - examples attached. Also have RawTherapee but don't use it much.
I'm thinking I'll convert an X-T10 to 720 IR w/ Kolarie w/ their IR anti-reflective filter. Own an X-T2 & have pixel peeped to see differences between 16 & 24 Mp sensor.
So here's my questions:

  • What raw development workflow do you use for IR?

  • If you use LR, are you happy with the results you're getting? Seeing artifacts? How about Clarity adjustments?

  • Any of you using an IR camera profile in LR? Results?

  • Those of you who have converted a 24 Mp sensor camera are you finding any significant differences in you results?

TerrySmith_EPS_Go Away!.jpg
TerrySmith_EPS_Go Away!.jpg
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I do a lot of traveling. Sometimes I am places without electricity. I have looked into getting a solar battery pack or just a rechargeable battery pack but many of these things only have USB ports. I have Fuji X camera but also a 7D Mark II. Does anyone have suggestions on a charger that would fit both batteries AND charge using USB? It would also cut down on packing because I could take one charger instead of two for my camera as well as my phone charger…
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Seen on the road during my pre dawn donut run aboard my motorcycle.
Fuji X100s, ISO400, 1/34ss, aperture priority, f2.8 on camera flash.
Sign of the Times 002.jpg
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X-T2 and XF55-200mm on a short and cold hike at a local Metropark looking up at iridescent clouds through bare trees.
Thanks for looking,
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Hi I've had this problem for a while now, my fuji x 100's eye sensor will only work very occasionally... Like I'll have it in eye sensor mode and I will raise my eye to the viewfinder but it basically doesn't register as if the sensor itself if broken. Has anyone else had this issue and resolved it? I might have to contact fujifilm or take it to a camera shop or what not. Thanks…
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I was aware of the Geminid meteor shower last night, but due to multiple reasons, I didn't catch any with the camera. When I arrived to my location, I saw about 4 big ones when, but as I got setup and started shooting, they stopped almost entirely. Oh well, I did get a snap of a shot of Orion, one of my favourite constellations.
Oh yeah, it was -24c while I was out and the X-T2 with the 16-55 f/2.8 handled the cold like a pro! The LCD didn't slow down, the batteries held a charge surprisingly well and no other funky issues to report.
Image EXIF:
X-T2 body
ISO 5000 for the sky shots, x6, median stacking. 10 sec. shutter
ISO 1000 for the foreground, 60 sec shutter.
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I hope it's okay to post this. Some big reductions. I bought my first light stand before the sale :)
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Just a heads up. I received notification of a nice offer this morning from Camera World. They are offering a free battery grip with every purchase of an X-T2, between 14th and 21st December. For those unfamiliar with them, they have shops in London, Chelmsford and Stevenage, as well as an online store. This offer has small print of "redeem in store", so I wasn't sure if that meant the brick and mortar shops only, however the offer does appear on the online store too. Always best to check the T&Cs though!
They are also offering the £95 Fuji cashback and £100 trade in on this, so its a pretty nice deal if you're in the market! :)
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I do a lot of product photography. I use Fuji XE-2 with colorchecker classic and Lightroom Classic, but some colors just don't match to real life. Is there any PRO that shoots products with FujiFilm.
Same product with Fuji XE-2 and Nikon D3100. Nikon D3100 has correct colors.
View attachment 116922
View attachment 116923
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Hi all, still fairly new to the Fuji-X scene, and have started to build my system up (X-T2 based) with the following lenses - all of which I got second-hand for good prices, having sold all my Nikon FF equipment (D810, D750 and most FF glass). I still have a D500 and a few lenses and also a healthy M4/3 system which I also enjoy shooting with. For info, what I currently have is:
Zooms - 10-24 F4, 18-55 F2.8-4, 18-135 F3.5-5.6, 55-200 F3.5-4.5
Primes - 23mm F1.4, 35mm F1.4 & 56mm F1.2.
My question concerns the "standard" zooms I have. The 18-55 whist a nice tiny little lens (which came with the X-T2) and the 18-135 (which was purchased for holidays etc. as a one lens set-up), are decent enough but haven't blown me away (maybe sample variation). Don't get me wrong, they are better than the "kit" lenses that Nikon offered (before the new superb 16-80 F2.8-4 VR which I have for my D500), and much better built, just not stellar and when I put the primes on the X-T2, I really shows me what the X-Trans sensor is capable of (I know that comparing a "consumer" zoom to a fast prime isn't a fair comparison, but you get the drift.)
I keep looking at pre-owned Fuji 16-55 F2.8 lenses, and wondering if the image quality is really a big enough step up image quality wise from the other glass, or is it all about the additional stop of light at the longer end and the 16mm vs. 18mm ? I like the idea that as per the 18-135mm it's a WR lens (shame the 18-55 isn't), but am a little put off by the fact the other two have IS whereas the 16-55 doesn't. I can't rationally say why this seems important to me as when I was shooting Nikon full frame, my 24-70 F2.8 wasn't stabilized and I did OK with that. Maybe I'm just spoiled with all my current Fuji zooms having IS ?
I have always liked my standard zooms to start around the 24mm (effective) range, as I do use that FL a fair bit, and was sort of hoping that Fuji might update the "18-55" to a "16-55 F2.8-4 IS WR" (looks very unlikely), as for me at least, the F2.8 aperture at the long end isn't the be and end all for me, and a variable aperture design would be fine by me. Just want to make sure I wouldn't;t be buying it for buying's sake.
Thoughts please ?…
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2:15 a.m., can't sleep due to news my cousin passed away. She was a good soul but very assertive, a lifelong music lover and musician. Her beautiful 12-string acoustic guitar was always on a stand in the living room, ready and waiting for that spark of inspiration. While out with my dog for a frigid and windy photo walk today (before getting the sad news) I spotted this discarded "Natural American Spirit" box in a parking lot, with its pipe-smoking Native American logo art, gradually being buried with snow. From her father, cousin had Native American blood in her veins, and she was dedicated to many Native American causes in her life. Uncanny how things work out sometimes. A couple more in the reply. X-E1, XF18-55
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Title pretty much says it. How do I set the aperture on an X-T20 (for aperture priority autoexposure) with a lens that has no aperture ring, such as the 50-230mm?…
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I don't have any Fuji lenses and planned on using my Canon FD film lenses for my [used] XE2. Like my Sony NEX, I planned on just keeping it in "S" or "M" mode so I dictate the ISO and shutter speed via camera and the aperture via the film lenses. This has been maddening because I set the XE2's command dial to change the "S.S"...which works on "T" dial up top. So I can go the full spectrum of 30"-1/4000th. I also have my ISO set to anything I want (not Auto or bracketed). Since there is no method to change the aperture, I can't change that.
My problem is that somewhere, the camera is taking over and overriding MY settings. Shutter I think because I have done the same exact image on a tripod, had ISO 200 with SS@1/200 (let's say) and take a shot. Then I'll take the same shot but with ISO 1600 and SS@1/1000 and I get the SAME image. There is NO possible way this can happen in what is supposed to be full manual. But if I pull up the JPEG and RAW files up, they both tell me the settings I had set.
Now, I did a test with movement and even though I have the "T" setting on the shutter dial and move the shutter to 1/1000th on the command dial at let's say ISO 200, I still get blur like it was at 1/20th SS. So even though the camera EXIF is stating 1/1000th, it's actually shooting at a far slower shutter speed. So either the camera is choosing the shutter for me regardless of the shutter I ASK it to do, or it's changing the ISO from what I ASK it to be at. The camera was at FW 4.0 and updated it to 4.1. I've done two resets and the problem still exists. I do have some control if I put the shutter dial to 1/200 with ISO 200, its a dark photo like I expect it to. But when change it to something that would be way over or under exposed, the camera still decides to kick in some auto function and produce a properly exposed photo. In the end, I cannot make a black photo or white photo via the settings by experimentation.
Thank you in advance…
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Should be approximately equivalent to a 16 mm. Taking advantage of the late afternoon light.
Nikkor 24 f2.8 & Zhonggi LT2.jpg
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I took this photo at Jasper national park in Canada. Originally I processed it in color to recover the cold icy blue of the water. But later I find my self enjoying it in black and white too. Especially since the colors are just not that interesting in the sky and mountains. What do you guys think?
(X-T10 Rokinon 12/2)
Thank you
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... the 6 metre (20') Pythons might. :)
Two cops on patrol at night in north Queensland recently had to wait for this little guy to cross the road in front of them.
Screen Shot 2017-12-14 at 8.35.43 am.png
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Hi guys, forum newbie here. As stated in my intro I´m the happy shooter of an X-T2 with the 18-55 kit lens and it looks like a 55-200 will soon join the fold. I want to get a decent ND filter to shoot some daylight long exposures on running water, rolling clouds and such and recently learned about variable nd filters which seemed like a great alternative to having multiple filters (my current 0.9 nd filter barely does the job), however I have read that variable nd filters might produce unwanted effects like dull colors and low contrast.
So wondering if going with a 9 or 10 stop nd filter might be a safer bet instead.
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated!
BTW just learned about step up adapters which made my day regarding not having to buy separate filters for lenses…