Some time ago I sold my X-Pro2 with all the lenses. Been using X-T1 and X-pro2 since switching to Fujifilm. And have tried and owned most of the lenses. From the big ones (16-55, 23 1.4, 56 1.2) to the smaller and newer ones (23, 35 and 50 F2). I´ve also had the 18-55, 55-200, 14 2.8 and 35 1.4.
I wanted to do something extreme with my photography and reducing it down to just one camera, one lens (X100F) Less choices and more thought on actual picture taking.
I really like what this have done to my photography and even though I'm asking this question I'm not regretting it.
But lately I´ve gone trough my pictures from the last years. And realizing that many of my best/finest pictures is taken with older cameras and older lenses. And the pictures that strike me the most now seeing them I retrospective, is the ones taken with the 35 1.4! And in many cases with the X-T1/35 1.4 or 23 1.4
I really think the 35 1.4 is a really great lens. And even though its slow and noisy, it takes great pictures. Also considered trying adapted lenses.
The thing is, I can't afford having both the X100F and a newer camera like XP2 or X-T2. So I was wondering if the X-Pro1 could be an option for this use. The X100F will be my everyday camera. How will I feel about the XP1 after using the XP2 for a while? Is one of the E cameras an option maybe? E1 or E2?…
The fortress was the location of the films «Ladyhawke» and «The name of the rose»
Fuji XE3 & XF 10-24mm + polarizing filter
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Neon sign making is a dying art, even in Hong Kong where their iconic glow can still be seen on nearly every downtown street. I decided to start an ongoing photo series capturing them before they disappear for good, replaced by cheaper LED signboards.
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I'd greatly appreciate feedback, and if you have some gorgeous neon photos of your own please do share them below!
Hello XH1 users,
I’m going to try some video shooting next weekend and I have a question regarding IBIS: when using a tripod, should I switch IBIS on or off when panning. I know that OIS should be turned off when shooting stills on a tripod but the video head I’m going to use is not the most advanced. I wonder if the IBIS can help smoothing the movements in the horizontal plane. But wait, is the IBIS working anyway when I switch off OIS on the lens? So OIS+IBIS? Any recommendation is appreciated.
Just recently I noticed that when I press the "triangle" button to view the image, I don't get full frame. I get a small image on the right side and some of the metadata on the left. I can get to the full frame only by pressing the up button on the dial three times but that's a pain. I've checked the manual and threads here and can't find an answer. Any suggestions?…
I took my new Olympus E-M1 with 60mm macro lens out in the field over the weekend.
With my frustrations over the Fuji implementation of focus bracketing, I decided to go down the Olympus path. At this stage it will now be my go to combination for fungi and native orchids. I'll stick with the Nikon bodies and macro lenses for those extra special orchid shots.
The Olympus I find does a good job for close-up and macro work. I also bought a mid range zoom and find it works well for taking happy snaps, which I might add is all I usually only take.
#1 Cobra Greenhood
How effective is the IOS in this lens? I would appreciate any experience/opinion on a safe speed with the 50-250. Could you hand hold it at 1/60?…
Tamron 10-24 f3.5-4.5 di ii B001 Nikon mount cannot change aperture with my Novaflex adapter. Is this because the lens only allows it ro be changed electronically?…
A few pics from "La Journée Trippante" a white water event on the St-François River in Québec with mostly DIY rafts made with air-tubes from mining trucks, rope and plywood ! Lots of fun !!
X-T2 + XF50-140mm, Raw, pp in LR Classic CC + IXT + Nik's
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Butterflies of the mangroves
7 photos in first and second / third post!
Here’s what I’d like to be able to do with my X-t2 regarding focusing. Let’s say I’m shooting a landscape. I determine my hyperfocal length and, pressing my back button in auto focus mode, focus on the specific point I’ve chosen. Now I want to double check and be sure it is tack sharp. Can I zoom in on that point prior to clicking the shutter to double check my focus and adjust manually if necessary?…
I took my XT-1 with a 60mm lens and a XE2 with a 32mm 2.0 lens
I got out and shot a few images today at Pirates Cove on Arnica Bay just a little north of Orange Beach ,AL. Man, that place was busy and people were having a great time in the heat. It’s cool place if you have never been there. People just pull up their boats and have a good time. I met some nice young men having a bachelor party and staying cool in the bay water. They were sliding down a slide of the back of their party boat. They were nice enough to let me climb up top and take a few images. I’m sure a lot of visitors to Pirates Cove enjoy
a few cold bushwhackers
Not exactly food or drink but part thereof. I decided to bake some bread this morning as I was up at 5AM. Part of the process is to manually grind the grain as it gives a better flavour. Now if I can get my sore arm to respond I can eat some of it with home made strawberry jam! Shot with a Nikkor 50mm, f1.8 0n a Lens Turbo, X-T2.
I'm making the jump from micro four thirds, mainly with having used Olympus bodies (Em5/Em1/Em10ii/PenF/Em1) for the past six years. I've had the chance to use both the X-t10 and 20 for about a week each and I like the feel of the bodies. I'd like to know user experiences and thoughts from those who have made the same move, or currently using both systems.
I'm looking into getting the X-T20, I suspect the thing I'll miss most is the customization options available in both Panasonic and Olympus bodies, but the Fuji X-t's don't seem so bad with most of the buttons being customizable as well. IBIS will probably be next on the things I'll "miss", despite my steady hand it has proven to be quite useful in so many situations for me. Thirdly, the compact and lightweight bodies as well as the options for lenses will be missed. The bodies I'm looking into are just as light and my usual focal lengths are pretty much covered in their lineup, just a bit costlier.
I plan on using the 18-55, samyang 12mm and one of the tele zooms, maybe the xc depending on how much I like it. Maybe get the 35 prime or 18-135 later on. I'm mainly a zoom shooter, I mostly used my primes in mft for low light and when I wanted shallow dof. I think I can achieve similar results (maybe not sharpness) as the primes with the kit 18-55 and the larger sensor.
Having done some initial reading, I realize the X-t20 aperture settings are controlled with the aperture ring on lenses that have them, with no option to set the front or rear dial for this particular setting. This is the main thing that I'm worried about. While I don't normally shoot one handed, I would prefer being able to change these settings with my thumb and finger with my right hand like I'm used to. I don't know if others are as bothered by this as I am, or if it presents as big a deal as I'm making it out to be.
I like to shoot at a very high volume and I'm used to being able to change shutter speed and aperture settings quickly with my thumb and forefinger. The controls are already there, so I don't see why they would not make it an option…
Another example why I love this lens. Was taking portraits of my son and not long after I was right in the flowers chasing bees. Thankfully I could get into the bee action without the need to use my epi-pen! haha!
This lens truly does it all and with great results
X-T2, VPB, 16mm f1.4 - manual focus. Super tiny crop.
The Alabama Hills, located just outside of the town of Lone Pine, California, sit at the foot of the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in California. It's basically high desert at about 4,000' elevation, and in the background it looks as if the Sierra Nevadas jut almost straight up to the high point of over 14,000'. We stopped there for just a few minutes early yesterday morning on our way home to San Diego. The night before there was a torrential monsoon-like downpour (and it was around 85F), and in the morning there were still some clouds left to burn off, which made for some great light.
All shot as either Acros-R or Velvia JPG, on an X-T2 with either the XF55-200 or XF10-24. A few more in the first reply…
I know there's a long, long thread on this lens and I did read through it as carefully as I could but couldn't find the answer to my question. If I missed it, please forgive me. I did my best to follow it, but it's long.
I'm looking for a wildlife and particularly birding lens, both in flight and more commonly perching or strutting.
I know this lens seems to please some and displease others and I've been swaying between buying it for my newly acquired XT-2 or whether to stick to my Canon 100-400 mk1 lens along with my 7D mk1 that I know gives good results and useable AF ( though the sensor also gives a bit of noise and lack of ability to push image shadows ) I honestly am in two minds so I've ordered one from a store which I've used a lot, explained my position, and they are happy to allow me a good return period.
Also I'm wondering if the discussed tripod collar/foot stability issue has been resolved, or whether it has actually been a real-world concern to anyone here? To ensure a good trial, I would like some advice on what Area Swiss lens plate to buy and I'm a bit puzzled. I notice the Arcatech one is 2.5" long, the Wimberley 4.5" and I can't find what length the Fuji one is. Do you have any recommendations as to the best one to buy?
Thank you for your consideration…
5 photos in first en second post!
The declining sun was at a good angle for this one, taken last night on the West Wales coast with the 14mm f/2.8. Being on holiday and far from my PC, I transferred it wirelessly to my Samsung G8, hoping to use its recently updated editing programme to tweak the image - but the update has reduced what was a useful conventional editing facility to sets of pre-set computer-driven versions of images (no sliders), leaving the user to make what he/she will of the versions offered. Frustratingly, what once allowed the usual adjustments to brightness, contrast, saturation etc now seems to have become a flashy juvenile programme allowing for the incorporation of stickers and other weird ebellishments. I'm not unhappy with the app's garish but strangely pleasing colourful version of the original here - but I can't wait to get back to the PC with the RAW original. Anyone else had this experience with the Samsung photo-editing programme update? Strangely, my son thinks it's great in a surreal kind of way and wants a print - as the parched grass of an unusually hot summer sets up, he thinks, some pictorially striking colour combinations!
I have recently changed from a Nikon dslr to the x-t2.
When I am taking images, I am using the ‘Fine & Raw’ option; I am saving the JPEGs and the raw files on the same memory card in slot 1.
I have now the following problem: when I am in playback mode I can only see the jpeg files, no (preview JPEG thumbnails of the recorded) Raw files. This normally would not be a problem but if I want to use the raw converter, this option is obviously greyed out as I am looking at a jpeg and not the raw file.
So the question is, how can I make the raw files ‘visible’ so that I can use the inbuilt raw converter?
Thanks for your help!…