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In a Buddhist temple in Colombo, Sri Lanka.
X-E2 with 18-55mm, processed with Silver Efex.
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My mate Dave the cat having a hard day at the office!

sleepy dave.jpg

X-T2 + 50-140 @ 1/240 f5.6 ISO 200
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Hello you lovely people,

Recently taken delivery of a rather good example of the x30 and could do with some pointers as this is my first, but definitely not my last, X camera.

I mainly shoot in two ways:
1. Auto focus with aperture priority.
2. Manual focus with aperture priority.

If anyone could give me instructions on how to set up the camera for these two methods and a quick way of changing from one to the other that would be really helpful.

Thanks in advance guys.
I confess, I've been a bit dismissive of OOC jpgs, probably because I'm too sloppy to get the settings right ;)

Just did a shoot of baby clothes in Melbourne, and I think after seeing these skin tones, maybe a bit of humble pie is in order... :)


XT-1, XF 18-55mm kit lens.
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I will get around to posting something Fuji very soon.

Meanwhile, here's a shot of some strange goggles that were for sale on a market stall in Stratford upon Avon.

Taken with my Lumix Gx7.


FF Goggles.jpg
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48 years ago the Cuyahoga River running through Cleveland, USA caught fire, and became the rallying cry for environmental awareness. Today, massive ore boats compete with ducks and other water birds, pleasure boats, rowing club sculls, and, yes, trout and other fish for access.

XPro-2, 16-55 (at 31 mm), 1/100 @f/2.8, ISO 6400, handheld.
Summer solstice 2017.jpg
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I bought my first Fuji an X100F two weeks ago and I'm really liking it. It complements my camera a Nikon D700 using an SB-28, 2 700s & and a 400 speedlight. This is my first question on the forum.

While I'm liking on-camera fill flash I want to take this further using the X100F with cordless off-camera flash. 70% of my flashlight shooting is outdoors (urban and street) using the flash in one hand, the camera in the other (hence the new smaller camera). The rest of the time I'll set up 2 or 3 speedlights indoors with Nikon and want to do so with Fuji (·Michael).

I am trying to avoid buying a transmitter to put on the X100F. I appreciate using 1/128 of full power and less. I am nearly always in manual for controlling ambient and flash light. I like the flexibility and stability of using radio signal to trigger flashes avoiding flashlight triggering if I can.

I believe that in Commander mode the X100F triggers off-camera flash using a special pre-flash sequence, not IR or radio signal (if I set "Built-in flash" to OFF). Am I right in thinking that the X100F will flash-light trigger the EX-F500 only: all other flashlights will need a transmitter putting on the X100F, including the new Godox TT350F?

I'm after a small 2-handed solution outdoors (1 flash, 1 camera) and to repurpose my speed lights for indoor Fuji X shooting where I can adjust power in 3 groups from camera position. I welcome your feedback to my understanding or suggestions I could consider.
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For my birthday I picked up the Opteka 15mm f4 1:1 Macro lens. It's the same optics and body as the better known Venus Laowa 15mm f4 Macro, but without the Laowa's perspective shift mechanism, which drops the price quite a lot.

From a handling perspective, it's objectively a pretty shitty lens to use. But the image quality is lovely and the wide-angle macro thing is super interesting. I've only just started playing with it (it arrived this afternoon and I only had a short time before a client shoot to play with it), but so far I'm pretty impressed. This is a tiny flower, and the bend up foreground petals are in contact with the front element or so close as makes no difference.

My version is in Nikon F mount, and is used with a Nikon G to Fuji X adapter from K&F Concepts.

Fuji X-T1 w/Opteka 15mm f4 Macro
ISO 1000, 1/125s, f11(ish)
Processed in Capture One & Photoshop
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oops - moved to correct forum
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Not sure how to phrase this without sounding silly, but I love what a picture looks like when reviewed in the EVF (X-T2). It somehow appears better there than when I look at the same pic on my monitor at home(!) (Some are IPS).

Is this just me?

Viewing through the EVF looks more "impactful". Maybe more contrasty.
The home monitor is not bad: 24-inch IPS from maybe 7 years ago.
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I rarely use this lens since I bought it around 2003 until recently going through three Canon dslr bodies preferring zoom lens.

Since the switch to Fuji (again), I decided to give it another round.

Golden hour, golden years

Stairway to nowhere

No english

Remnants of the past


Bad composition

Hanging and waiting

Look up! Or down...

Looking back, surprised to find out that even on f2.8 the bokeh is still circular/oval shape (shirt and princess photos) compared to other lens stopped down one already having hexagon shape bokeh.
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Hi all!

Really excited new owner of an X-T20, however i notice that if i tilt my camera forward and back (or shake it softly) - there is an internal rattling noise ...sounds slightly metallic, as if something is loose...
Even lens off, no batts, cards etc.

It worries me, but just wondering if anyone else has experienced anything similar from their models?
I rang up a few local camera stores, two of which said their display models don't have any noise, and another said theirs did. Any thoughts?

If not i might take it back to store this coming week.

Thanks :)
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I have just updated to the latest body (3.7) and lens (1.11) firmware but I was disappointed to see that it didn't make the bright frame display area in the OVF any more accurate with my XF 27mm 2.8 lens. The actual image captured is way larger than what is shown in the bright frame box.

Can anyone help me with this problem? I am fanatical about composition and with this lens and camera I am just guessing at what is actually being included in the photograph. One of the firmware notes says it "improves the cover range and accuracy of the bright frame in the OVF" which hasn't happened for me at all.

I much prefer to use the OVF so any help is greatly appreciated!!
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Ive been out taking the usual pictures around the house that I take when I receive a new or new to me lens or camera body. It feels a lot smaller than my X-T2 but better then my X-70 did. Ive already been told that Im going back in time with the X-E2s and the old 16mp sensor but I like the pictures it produces. My only complaints are the "auto" button, when pressed puts the auto focus in continuous mode and you have to listen to the focus motor running almost continuously. That is something I doubt I will ever use anyway so not really a problem. The other problem Im having, and I realize its my fault is when I grab the camera I seem to always press the AF-L or AE-L buttons. I should be able to solve that with more use and or putting a grip on. I think Im going to enjoy shooting with it.
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Another shot from my 2-weeks traveling through Glasgow, Belfast and Dublin.
The William Wallace Monument in Scotland, as taken from the Stirling Castle parking lot.
I grabbed this in a rush, with our driver pleading "Come on boys, let's go!"
Hand held, manual focus, X-E1 with SMC Takumar 85mm f1.8 (M42). ISO200 and 1/2000.
This is also another time I forgot to tell the camera that I'd changed lenses. The EXIF wrongly says 16mm.

Glasgow - Wm Wallace Monument DSCF3262 YCC444.jpg
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Hi there I have just signed up to the forums.
I own a Fujifilm XE-1 and a Fujifilm X-M1 both fantastic cameras looking forward to participating in the forum.

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I had the luxury of meeting some great people today that I otherwise would not have had the chance to, if not for this forum. I met up with Doug and his lovely wife in my home town to buy his 50-140 lens. It was a great experience to meet Doug and his wife in person and to sit and have pizza and beer, on a deck overlooking the water. I really appreciate the interaction and good time we had more than the lens itself. Thank you Douglas Bain, and I hope you guys have a great trip up here in Massachusetts.
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I could not find such a thread existed so here we go.

I'll start with a few from a 1937 Zeiss 50mm f1.5 Sonnar un-coated lens.
I've owned the T Zeiss Opton version of this lens. That one renders quite modern on the Leica M8/9. Never tried it on a fuji but I would expect the same.
The Uncoated version has a softer lower contrast look and a mostly unavoidable glow wide open.
The look is special . Sharp-ish yet "dreamy"..... "painterly".
At mid distance the glow really becomes apparent and I like to make use of it there..... gives a natural painterly look.

I'm using the lens on an XT1 via an Amedeo Contax RF to Leica M adapter then to a Hawks Leica M to Fuji fx close focus adapter. (pictured below)
These are simple sample images. OOC Jpegs via wifi transfer to flickr (a bit low-fi).

Wide open. No flash here. Getting some special reflected light from the greenhouse north wall late in the day this solstice week.

On a Hawks close focus adapter

3meters. My favorite way to use this lens. Look at the soft glow. So nice.[​IMG]

Wide open again a quick snap after Watermelon Mojitos. My best friend on her Bday. Yes she has a foxglove growing from her head :p

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A cutie guy in a basket! X-T2, 90mm, a wicker basket...

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Been having an itch for some time now. Considering a X100f or X-Pro2. Please keep the following in mind if responding to post:

1. Cost not an issue.
2. What I will be photographing, not important.
3. Any advantages between the 18mm f/2.0 or 27mm f/2.8 lenses.
4. Other bodies or lenses, not interested.

Thank you in advance for any observations with my issue.
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Picked up a used 100-400 and giving it a whirl. Not sure I'm keeping it just yet, we'll see. It's very big, although not terribly heavy.

I'm just not sure how much I'd use it and I wonder if getting the 1.4 teleconverter for my 50-140 would be better for those times when I'd like a little more reach. Would love to hear your thoughts.

A few from today in the yard. All 200 ISO, hand held. It's very sharp! These are all pretty much SOOC, classic chrome though ACR.

[​IMG]yellow poppies
1/400, 5.6, 400mm

[​IMG]Henry 6-24-17
1/200, 6.4, 400mm

1/2000, 4.7, 128.3mm
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I can recall the Hare Krishna followers chanting all over NYC back in the '60s and 70's but hadn't seen much of them since. A few weeks ago I stumbled upon a festival in Greenwich Village and it seems that the movement is very much alive and well. Taken with X-E2 and 35mm f/1.4

20170610 037.jpg

20170610 040.jpg
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Tuk Tuk or as we call it in India, Autorickshaw, #X100S

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Quadralite Atlas 600 is obviously a rebranded Godox Ad600, but is it exactly the same though? Will Godox triggers work for the atlas and vice versa?

I dont know if Quadralite is available anywhere else than in europe.
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Busy weekend covering the NASCAR SaveMart 350 at Sonoma Raceway. Also working on assignment for a team that has a driver from the European NASCAR Whelen series.

These are all X-T2 pics...



Lots of atmosphere at a NASCAR race...

Mechanics working on the cars in pit lane below the "crow's nest"

Turn 10, one of the fastest corners on the track

Kurt Busch

Nice panning shot of Paul Menard...

My assignment for the weekend, Alon Day through the Esses.

Alon Day confers with his crew chief...

Clint Bowyer....

Alon's press conference....X100F portrait.
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Note The AD200 and TT350 are missing. The TT350-F should be able to do what the X1C does. It looks like the AD360I with the XTR-16 plugged in should be able to do HSS with the TT350-F as master. The chart also give us a better look at the product line minus the AD200 and TT350.

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I am not able to shoot in RAW on my Fuji X-T2. Under Image Quality setting, there are only FINE and NORMAL options. Any idea how I can get the RAW option back? Thanks,
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I'd like to buy a 35mm lens for my X-e2 but can't make my mind up about which one.
I'm mostly taking pictures of my wild three year old boy, and I'd say the two most important things for me are bokeh and fast autofocus, hence the dilemma! The 35/2 seems a lot faster at focusing but the 35/1.4 excites me more with the possibility to get portraits with a lot of background blur.
Would you say the 1.4 version is fast enough for kids with the X-e2?
Has anyone tried?
As a comparison I'd say that the 18-55 lens I have on it now, is fast enough for me, but my old X100 misses too many shots for me to use it enjoyably.
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Tuk Tuk in Kandy, Sri Lanka. TukTuk.jpg
X-E2 with 18-55mm, processed with Silver Efex.
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Fuji X-T2 footage recorded using 'Pre Neg Std' with lowest values for highlights, shadows, contrast & color.

Premier CC 'lumati color' is used to correct footage using scopes & watching scopes of one reference footage.

Question: are we technically increasing 'dynamic range'?

X-T2 in camera (4:2:0) is around 10 stops dynamic range. With F log (4:2:2) it is around 12 stops. I think decreasing 'whites' & increasing shadows & contrast in post gives around 12 stops? What do you think? In camera 12 stops footage what else someone needs.

See YC waveforms before & after espacially highlights/whites on extreeme right.

Also tried Resolve 12.5 but I am beginner to it. Could not produce good stuff out of that. I am sure it can do better if not equivillent to Pr.

Any comments or suggestions welcome.




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Does the X-T20 support hss on ocf from example nissin and godox?
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I'd like to buy a 35mm lens for my X-e2 but can't make my mind up about which one.
I'm mostly taking pictures of my wild three year old boy, and I'd say the two most important things for me are bokeh and fast autofocus, hence the dilemma! The 35/2 seems a lot faster at focusing but the 35/1.4 excites me more with the possibility to get portraits with a lot of background blur.
Would you say the 1.4 version is fast enough for kids with the X-e2?
Has anyone tried?
As a comparison I'd say that the 18-55 lens I have on it now, is fast enough for me, but my old X100 misses too many shots for me to use it enjoyably.
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Took the afternoon off and decided to visit the Bronx Zoo

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