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I recently took in an exhibit of sculpture by Patricia Piccinini in the appropriately named Patricia Hotel here in Vancouver.
She creates hyper-realistic transgenic (part human, part something else) figures. They run the range of normal looking humans, to the stuff of nightmares. Each though, somehow conveys a sense of tenderness, even love.
A unique feature of the exhibit is that it is presented not in a gallery, but in 17 rooms of this budget hotel in the Downtown East Side of Vancouver. The figures appear as if they are guests in the rooms, on the beds, and among the regular furniture and fixtures of a regular hotel. Through the windows, regular city life can be seen.
In this 1st photo, I got lucky when a beam of sunlight illuminated the girl on the bed, and allowed a proper exposure outside, of those two hand-holding security guards across the street.
The Comforter.jpg
#1 "The Comforter"…
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XT1 F4.8 at 1/180 ISO 320, 55-200 lens at 200mm
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The trail follows the East Fork of the Jemez River through a lush canyon full of magnificent tall trees (ponderosa pine, douglas fir, blue spruce), incredible rock formations, willows, shrubs, and some wildflowers.
The shady areas have lots of lichens and mosses, adding to the magical feeling of walking through an enchanted forest.
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We had around 11-15 centimetres of snow yesterday. It's melting now. Photographing fallen leaves in snow is one of my favourite things to do in the winter. You seldom get everthing in focus unless you photo stack (which I seldom do). :)
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Mandrill Portraits
X-H1 | XF100-400
2x2 photos
1 Dark Animal Portrait (young male)
2 He is the boss
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Wondering if anyone else has experienced this with any of their Fuji lenses with an aperture ring:
As I was shooting yesterday I noticed that even though my lens was set to 2.8, the actual photos had their apertures varying widely driving the ISO up.
After noticing I could turn the aperture ring away from 2.8 and back and it would be fine for the next few shots.
Problem is sporadic and inconsistent. I did recently switch to and X-H1, and never noticed previously on my X-PRO2 or X-t1. Unfortunately have sold both and cannot test.
I tested with a few other lenses and don't seem to have the problem which makes me think it is the 16-55. Regardless not sure what would cause such a thing? Thoughts?…
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The 35mm is without doubt my favourite personal single focal length !
I would in fact bet it is the single most preferred focal length in existence.
I was just messing about in the garden, taking pics for the hell of it. As usual I fitted the 35mm.
It got me thinking... The X100 X100F ect ect ect Soooo many choices in this most popular focal length.
I hope this thread is popular and long lasting.
Please quote Camera or camera + lens when posting !
If I had planned to do this, I would have made a better job lol
but to kick it off...
Nikon D4s with tamron 35mm F1.8
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I ran across this video recommending 24mm on full frame (16mm on Fuji) as a portrait lens because it is more "authentic."

What do you think?…
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There was an 'issue' on the X-T2 where engaging Flicker Reduction impacted on Framerate. It appears that this has carried over to the X-T3. When Flicker Reduction mode is on the 11fps Framerate in CH mode drops to around 8-9fps.
Can be found under 'Shooting Setting' -> Flicker Reduction
Flicker Reduction:
• Enabling flicker reduction disables the electronic shutter and increases the time needed to record pictures.
• Flicker reduction is not available during movie recording.
Accidentally discover an "unlock" to dehaze function in Lightroom via lightroom 6 standalone.
Story goes like, I recently purchased a behringer midi board with physical dials.. following online resources (midi2LR) to map the keys to LR6 functions, came to found out that when the dials are mapped, I can control dehaze via the dial (even thought the UI is disabled).. awesome…
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I find that the Pop colour and other advanced filters are too extreme. Is there a way to tone down its effect in camera in Fuji X-10 or in computer as we adjust opacity in Photoshop…
I have a large set of photos of students.I need to crop out Mug shots from these pictures for creating ID cards.Is there a software solution that can do this for me?…
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Fuji X-T20 with 18-55mm kit lens. We got in a few swings of the golf club in between poses.
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Disassembled Fuji XF 35m F1.4 R one more time with taking more detailed pictures of the process.
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Howdy everyone.
Anyone use the Fringer unit to adapt longer telephoto primes to your kit? I own and love the fuji 50-140 and am on the fence about going ahead and purchasing the 100-400 and just moving on with the whole thing. On the other hand, the fringer unit would allow me to scoop up a Canon 300 f4/400 5.6 or the brilliant 200 L. The difference in cost between the fringer and a used canon like those mentioned above works out to be about half...
What are your thoughts? Anyone used this combo?
For those of you curious, I'm most interested for taking perched bird photos at a local wildlife refuge. Birds are largely stationary either perched/nesting or wading. No sports and minimal in flight based photos.
Thanks in advance for taking the time…
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Fuji X-T2 and 100-400mm
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I have a few of these batteries. They have always worked well.
Have any of you who use them figured out how to get them out of the camera easily? It’s like they are swollen or whatever. I just spent 15 minutes getting one out to charge it, and finally had to resort to using the tiny file on my fingernail clippers to pry it out.
That, my friends, makes me very nervous. First I tried sticking duct tape on the bottom, but it just pulled off. Put your thinking cap on, or if you’ve figured it out, please share.
Best I remember, when very new, they came out easily. But no longer…
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XT2 and XF55-200mm a couple of hot humid days ago as storms moved in.
Thanks for looking,
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Something went dreadfully wrong...will repost :)
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I like their style. To me it reads pretty objectively…
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Hello All,
I just wanted to tell those of you interested in Fashion, that on Thursday, September 27th at 5PM EST on their You Tube channel, I will be interviewed by Tony and Chelsea Northrup to discuss all things related to Fashion Photography and the Biz. That's quite a huge subject in the 1 hour time slot, but I will do my best. I will also be sharing my thoughts on those submitting their Fashion Photography images.
Hope to see you all there.
Best Wishes
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I've been slowly rehabbing my X100. A few weeks ago I removed and replaced the back as it was damaged (took about an hour). That process was made easier because I was planning to re-skin it so ripping off the current skin wasn't a big deal. There are a LOT of screws to remove to get the back off so preserving the skin is almost impossible. In the process, I learned that the rear screen that we all can tough is just a stiff plastic sheet on top of the screen. It's less scuffed than the one I removed but ti still has a few. does anyone have a recommendation of something that I can buff out those scuffs with? I have the back I removed that I can test it on first…
Do you ever fully get over it?
Has anyone ever bought a camera three times...
Students learning woodcarving, Gantok.
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I have the 23mm f2 since Christmas 2016 and I am pretty happy with it, though sometimes I wished I had a wider lens with better subject separations like the XF 16mm.
going back to my folder of the XC 16-50 that I used before the 23mm, most of the photos were taken in 16mm, followed by 21 to 26mm, so I am good with both 16 and 23mm angles.
Why I am thinking to sell the 23mm and get the 16? Correct me if I am wrong:
-Better bokeh specially wide open
-Better for landscape and tight tourism places
-Better micro contrast to pop up photos (which can greatly change the result sometimes)
-fuji Lebanon is making a price offer on the 16mm (820$)
Now why I am not totally convinced:
-I have a small X-T20 camera so the 16mm could be awkwardly too big and heavy
-400 to 500$ is the price of swapping depending on how high I can sell the 23mm while I don't have a tremendous salary…
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Thought I would create a thread where people can list what they liked or disliked about their first experiences with the XT-3
Overall, the one biggest thing that makes the XT-3 a worthwhile upgrade is the improved AF. I hesitated to switch over to Fuji from a DSLR completely because of the AF, but after using the XT-3, I'm pretty confident that AF is not only on par, but possibly better. (I'm comparing with the D800)
Improvements I like, and other pluses that are not commonly mentioned:
-No more weird sleep issue if I switch the camera off and on too quickly.
-Continuous focus is amazing in single point focus, to the extent that I can use AF-C as my primary mode of autofocus, just like a DSLR.
-Slightly tighter lens mount than the XT-2.
-Bluetooth works well with the app, though it does take ~10 seconds to sync.
-I can power the camera with USB-C instead of the awkward DC coupler...
-Many many others
Some shortcomings:
-Continuous focusing doesn't work as snappily in low light with small aperture.
-I still need to cycle through all the view modes if I want to alternate between EVF only and LCD only -.-
-The command dial feels different. It takes more force to turn, and it clicks when pressed. I prefer the XT-2 implementation, but it is minor.
-When using batteries (e.g. Wasabi power) other than the official NP-W126S, the camera will show a notification stating that boost mode is limited.
-The position of the 2.5mm jack for remote trigger on the right of the camera interferes with right-handed operation. While most people won't need to use both at the same time, it does make switching between remote trigger and hand held operation less smooth.
-Older accessories from XT-2 are not fully compatible. The L plate with grip, for example, will screw on fine, but the _ part of the L (for mounting the camera vertically) is too short. It obstructs the door to HDMI, USB-C.The XT-2 screen protector fits vertically, but extends beyond the LCD length wise by a few mm.
-Battery will supposedly last more shots. But if you start to use touchscreen, bluetooth geotagging, and other new amazing features of the camera, expect battery life to be shorter.
-Dials for switching between S, Cl CH etc., and metering, are a little looser in my copy and I find myself turning it accidentally.
-When switching between MS, ES and other shooting modes using a function button, instead of cycling between the options, a menu shows up and you have to select it manually.
-No coveted "Made In Japan" label anymore.... *tears*
-Touchscreen is nice to have, but it is more trouble than it is worth for my use case. (If I don't want my nose to activate features randomly, I have to set the active area etc.)
-I still find myself wishing for IBIS.... but..... I chose to have my cake, not eat it ><
There are other differences of course, but these are the ones I have encountered so far. It may also vary between copies, so don't take my word for it. It may seem as though I listed more shortcomings than improvements, but there are enough reviews extolling the good stuff, so I wanted to focus on the slight imperfections.
Overall, XT-3 is a fantastic upgrade. Go Fuji!…
I discovered this handsome creature today, eating a grapevine in my garden. I believe it wants to be a Pandorus Sphinx Moth when it grows up.
A couple more garden safari shots if you <Please login or register to view links>
Fuji XE2+XF 18-55mm F2.8-4+Marumi Achromat 330 (+3)…
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I'm wondering, how much telephoto focal length do you need to shoot through fences at a zoo? Is it a function of sensor size, and thus the question should really be how much effective focal length? I'm not quite sure if aperture matters much in this care. I would think focal length is the most important factor…
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I picked up my X-T3 today and finally got it home with great expectation. Updated the firmware, set the menus and command buttons as I wanted and put it to work. Very impressed and very happy. Two hours in, however, and weird things started to happen. The shutter speed dropped out of the display although aperture and ISO continued to show. Then the dynamic ranger icon disappeared. I checked the menus and they had not changed and all the needed display icons were ticked. The real kicker was the auto focus just stopped (23mm 1.4) totally and became just a click sound. Changed the lens to my 35mm 1.4 but still no joy. The focus assist light also stopped coming on.
A full reset brought it all back but I am now worried. I am using the camera over the weekend for personal use and hopefully all will be okay, otherwise I will sadly be returning the unit.
Anyone else had any issues?…
hello, a problem has appeared with my X100F viewer: by sweeping the view, yellow areas of "saturation" or "highlighting" appear on the brightest parts of the image. An idea of what can happen. Thank you in advance…
I am transitioning from Lightroom to RawTherapee (currently version 5.4) for my native .RAF files. For those of you who have experience with RT, what are your tips/suggestions/best practices for sharpening? Obviously I want to eliminate/avoid the wormy effect that was happening in LR, but any other input is welcome also. Thanks in advance for your responses…
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Canon 7DMII + Sigma 150-600mm C set to a focal length of 600mm. I had to do a substantial crop given the size of the bird and the distance it was from me.
_36A0365_DxO copy.jpg
Gothic Mountain near Crested Butte, Colorado and a small stream by my home in Gunnison, CO. Both shot with an X-T2 plus 55-200 hand held.
An area professional photographer is dwarfed in the foreground of the Gothic shot on the lower right.
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Took the X-T3 on a little evening bike ride yesterday evening and shot this scene just before the sun went down. Of course, this meant riding 10 miles home in the dark. At least I didn't run into any big wildlife.
The first image is Velvia at ISO 160 with the XF50mm f/2 lens.
The shot below is ACROS at ISO 12,800. Pure luscious film grain heaven.
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on these pictures I did have to wait a while but you do not have to be nice to have a little luck
rode moto op brug.jpg
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