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I've had this image rattling around in my mind for quite awhile. I work in construction, fire protection to be specific, and have always wanted to photograph some of the things that I routinely wear or use at work. Sometimes i feel that the job can be agonizing or at least difficult physically. Photography is a great creative outlet for me and provides fulfillment that the job can't seem to deliver. Photographing my boots, hard hat and gloves is a kind of personal juxtaposition for me. Thanks for looking.
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As many of you know I'm new to this forum and to the Fuji-X world, but not to the photography world, since I've been doing this since 2009, first with Nikon, then with Sony. This is one of my first images with my X-A10. This comes form them RAW / RAF and I slightly cropped a light post on the left and tried to get rid of distortion too. All this was done with SILKYPIX that I downloaded from Fuji's website. I used this program because my main PP software doesn't open RAFs (I have Capture One for Sony, which works only with Sony ARW, unfortunately).
I wanted to ask advices for better setting and shooting with my new Fuji.
Thanks in advance for those who decided to answer to this post.
PS. I used Watermark Plus for watermarking.
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My settings: +1 shad, +2 hi, Nr-4, no grain, sharp 0
Impressed with the natural grain and the DR possible. Something about it!
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a casual photo of an old friend of mine. x-t1, 18-55
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At times, I want to do B&W mode with my X-A1. (I use it mainly for astrophotography). The camera seems to work perfectly in B&W. No complaints. On the contrary, nice resolution, etc.
I was interested in knowing (for processing purposes with an astrophotography processing program) how the camera manages to "ignore" the Bayer matrix.
The reason I ask is the following:
In astrophotograhy it is sometimes useful to capture, for example, a "blue channel" ONLY by using a special filter called a "narrowband" OIII filter. In that case --- with a blue filter in place --- is the camera:
A) using all the pixels to register the all the "blue" photons hitting the sensor
B) is the camera registering only the photons (which of course are all "blue") that find their way to a pixel covered by a "blue" portion of the Bayer matrix ???
I guess you can see where I'm going with this.
If the answer is "A", I get better resolution.
If the answer is "B", 75% of the pixels on the sensor are rendered useless because the red and green portions of the Bayer matrix will block the "blue" photons…
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Hello all from Mindanao in the Philippines.
I am a retired American who now holds a Permanent Resident visa in this country. I have decided to try digital photography & editing, jumping in with both feet and a used X-T2 and 18-55 zoom as well as a new X-E3, 16mm, & 27mm. Next, God willing, is Capture One Pro 11.
40-50 years ago I lived & breathed photography, at various times as a custom B&W lab printer, camera store salesman & manager, and regional sales rep (Beseler-Topcon). Even a BFA in photography. Then, grad school & a career change & photography mostly fell by the wayside except for point & shoots with drug store processing.
Packing to move here I came across some old prints & a few 35mm & 120 roll film cameras. Why not try again, I thought, you loved it then—and more than any line of work since then. And besides, I have time on my hands and there are lots of cool new cameras & lenses! So here I am, in over my head with almost everything I once knew nearly useless, trying to learn anew with all the benefits of an aged body & weak vision.
Thank you for being here…
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Philippines is hosting the 9th Pyro Musical Competition and me and some friends went last night to watch Taipei vs UK. Im not sure which country it is with the photos im posting so pls accept my apologies. :)
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Oh dear......Oh dear dear dear.
Well it's said it's a woman's perogative to change their about sexual equality?
I have always advocated JPEG, in Part 1 of this thread it was discussed at length. In fact I ended up deciding to shoot bracketed simulation both raw and JPEG.....stupid or what?
And bear in mind LR is so low, talk about paint drying.
My LR is on subscription and I assummed that it would be updated as and when automatically , it isn't. So for me a very complicated operation, up load the latest version and........
WOW, like greased lightening, raw files loaded in a blink, great lets have a play.
First load a JPEG, 14.4 Mb, have a play, no cropping just a few adjustments and load and reload a couple of times, then I did something for the first time, checked the edited file size, 13.2 Mb, Oh dear. Lets try raw, of course whatever you mess about with still around 50Mb. Hence with the LR now being on steroids a cunning plan emerged.......JUST SHOOT RAW.
Snowing outside so yet another kitchen sink snap.
untitled (1 of 1).jpg
untitled (1 of 1)-9.jpg
Only problem is file size.
I shoot very few pictures, a day's shooting maybe a dozen or so, say 6 keepers. But saving a raw file plus the edited TIFF comes to about 200Mb, seems a lot. I have an Mac with 2Tb of storage and a further 4Tb in a La Ice, haven't got much of a clue except that would seem a lot or should I try to reduce the file size with some sort of compression. Another thing is, I save each image twice, in the Mac and back up in the external unit, so it works out about 400 Mb per snap.
P.S. and Fuji Studio raw has been the trash can. :)
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Hello all,
I cannot figure out how to set up my X-T2 so it does the same focus assist zoom as the X-E3. I think I have set both camera menus exactly the same but this problem persists.
Relatedly, I cannot get either camera to provide a split image that looks like the one in the Instruction Manual. That might work best for my aged eyes & it's also what I learned to use decades ago with both range-finders and SLRs. (I also posted this 2nd question on the X-E3 forum.)
Thanks in advance--
Max M…
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Hello all,
First, I am really a newbie but "have insufficient privileges to post" on that Forum. But I can post here--how do I get those privileges?
I cannot manage to get split image to work on my new X-e3 with either the 27mm or 18-55mm lenses, in Manual mode or anywhere else. I'm not sure what I'm not doing but part of what's confusing is that there seem to be so many ways to set a control in one place and unset or over-ride it somewhere else. That may be my problem. Of course, open to any suggestions!
Max M…
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I know many of you who experience really bad snow and cold weather will be laughing in your cups this morning! But at 0C, I don' like it at all, so I wish the beast from the east would go home and let me warm up a bit. :D
mini beast.jpg
X-H1 + 35mm 1.4 @ 1/80 f5.6 ISO200…
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A lot of view modes on our fujifilm camera, but still not the good one. When will there be an update that the LCD is used for the Q and menu function when using the EVF/OVF only. I'm only use the EVF/OVF to shoot, but when I want to adjust something inside the Q menu, I have to switch the view mode, adjust and press the view mode a few times again to use the EVF. Playback is supported on the LCD, but still not Q and menu…
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Grabbed this a few weeks ago when noticed a glow in my front room
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I sensed he wasn't really paying attention to our conversation. :D
X-T1 10-24
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Parliament station - Melbourne
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I'm sure that there is lots of comparison of the two lines above. I have the 56mm lens and soon will have the 60mm lens. I don't know if I need both? I have had the 56mm for sometime, its nice but I find it as a hit or miss thing for me.
What should I do for making comparisons? Weight, sharpness speed of focus?
Any suggestions will be helpful.
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I actually live here, but OOB is a huge tourist destination during the warmer months. I shot this photo in November 2015 after most of the town had closed down for the season, which is why the Ferris Wheel doesn't have any gondolas on it. Just came across it while doing some backups and thought I'd share.
Fuji X-E1 w/18-55
@19mm f5.6 ISO200
Three-Shot HDR in Adobe Photoshop
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On my iMac

  1. FastRawViewer 1.4.3 can open both compressed and uncompressed raw files

  2. Luminar 2018 1.1.1 (3090) can open both compressed and uncompressed raw files

  3. On1 Photo Raw 2018.1 (12.10.4938) can open only open uncompressed raw files

  4. Lightroom 6.14 (perpetual license) cannot open any X-H1 raw files (without changing the IXIF data to fake camera)

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My Fotasy. Nikon to Fuji adapter fell apart where tbe iris control is. I am looking for a better quality replacement. Any suggestions?
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Burgers’ Safari and Rimba the Malaysian tropical rain forest
Burgers' Zoo / Netherlands
X-T2 | XF100-400 | XF1,4xTC
Part 1 The jewels of the bush > here: Please login or register to view links
In the second post of this topic more photos!
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can you guys share your setting with provia?i mean with the s tone h tone color sharpness etc
just for reference:)
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There's a family of River Otters we often see on a beach near our home on the West Coast of BC. today they had a particularly good day fishing.
Xpro2 100-400 with 1.4 teleconverter. all jpegs taken under very contrasty conditions, so adjusted in LR.
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Having nothing but problems connecting to my phone and transferring pictures with the XH-1. Why couldn’t they just leave it alone, it worked fine before with previous cameras.
It never just reconnects like it’s supposed to. This whole registration thing I think, is at the heart of the issue. In order for my camera to connect successfully, I have to delete both the camera in the app as well as delete the registration in the camera and start all over again every single time. It’s such a bear.. all I ever seem to see in the app is a red triangle or yellow triangle next to my XH-1, indicating that there’s “some sort of problem.”
Fuji, wth man. This used to be a ten second thing to transfer a few pics but now it’s a ten minute headache and exercise in frustration…
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A little while ago, somebody (sorry, don’t remember the member's name) shared their set-up for scanning slides with an X-camera and one of the extension tubes. The results looked promising, so I wanted to replicate this idea of a slide-scanner.
Here’s what it looks like (more info and sample scan images in the reply to this post):
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Recently got a 50-140 & 100-400 for an upcoming trip and got me thinking about downsizing my lens collection. If I get 16-55 it covers basically all the ranges, plus it will be all WR which none of my primes are.
The 16-55 can replace my 14, 23 (1.4), 18-55 & maybe 56.
Probably want to keep 56 for portraits which I do a lot. Also have a 27mm, but I like the pancake size. Planning to sell my 55-230 since the 50-140 covers that. Maybe pickup a 12mm for astro.
Bit of a turn off is the 16-55 is big and heavy, but people seem to love it with the X-H1 which I have on order. Another turn off is the hassle of having to find buyers for all my prime lenses. When I travel with my SO with two bodies it is fun to each run around with own prime lens.
Kind of a personal preference thing, everyone has their own needs, but what do you gals/guys think?…
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I just purchased an XT 2 recently and I am able to upload jpegs to my Mac. Raw files, however won't load. Something to do with unrecognizable file format. I downloaded Fuji's raw converter Silkypix. Not sure what to do to solve this. Any help appreciated…
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I am a former pro shooter, now living in the south of France where I run a small wine touring company. I've done photojournalism and large format studio work. Started out with Pentax, then Nikon, Olymus, Mamiya and have just gone to Fuji X-T2. Today I shoot for pleasure; street, portraits, client souvenirs and family. Look forward to learning how to master the X-T2. cheers…
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There are lots of Redwings around here this time of year! X-T2 and 100-400..
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For sale by auction a mile from home. XK140. X-M1/35mm f1.4.
Wife won't sell house to purchase Jaguar!…
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So, after being more than impressed with IQ and sharpness out the 18-55 i have second hand (Japanese, 2017), I did some tests of various things (bookcase, normal objects, edge sharpness stuff) and found the 18-55 outresolving the 35 f2 and 27 2.8 at the edges wide open, with them only catching up at f/4 and above...
At f/5.6 both primes are sharper across the frame, but its VERY close.
Now, the 27mm at f/5.6 is sharper than them both, and has better microcontrast, whereas the 35 renders the best.
I know the 18-55 is well-reviewed, and this is possibly an expceptional copy, but still. Be interested to hear some thoughts…
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I had a meeting cancelled at the last minute leaving me with time to kill (and, by good fortune, a camera with me). So three shots over the Thames:
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Until now, I've been doing astrophotography. I rarely do any day-time shots. But I thought I should give it a try. Here are some flowers. X-A1 with Sigma 400mm APO. I did a lot of processing from RAWS to TIF to JPG, using the Fuji processing software.
It's a pain to do the manual focusing .... but I think I managed.
Flower J03 -- DSCF7926 sm.jpg
Flower K22 -- DSCF7933 sharp sm.jpg
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The cheap as chips 50-230mm strikes again. A pelican at Paignton Zoo earlier this year.
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Fuji came out with a new leather camera strap.
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A model of Gaudi's Casa Milà in Barcelona. X T2. f3.2, 1/60, iso 400.
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Taken with XE-1/35mm f1.4, and 18-55
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